Grilled ripe tomatoes are fragile. They are easiest grilled whole, then pureed. Their smoky undertaste adds an incomparable dimension to sauces and soups. Set whole firm ripe tomatoes over a low fire and turn with tongs as the skin chars. When charred all over, cool, then puree with the skin. Green tomatoes grill beautifully. Prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire. Cut into 1/2-inch-thick slices: 6 large green tomatoes Brush all over with: Olive oil or vegetable oil Coat with: Cornmeal mixture for Fried Green Tomatoes omitting the thyme and paprika and adding, if desired: 1/8 teaspoon ground red pepper Grease the grill rack and add the tomatoes. Grill, turning once with tongs, just until they begin to soften, 4 to 6 minutes. Serve hot, plain or with: Mayonnaise with Green Herbs